Amisfield Walled Garden

I had the delight to visit the Amisfield Walled Garden in East Lothian recently. The walled garden is one of the largest in Scotland. When I think of a walled garden, I think of a hortus conclusus—a small, enclosed garden meant for contemplation, perhaps a medieval tryst. But the Amisfield Walled Garden is anything but small.

The walled garden dates to the 18th century and is laid out like the Union Jack. Garden visitors enter through the original entrance and happen upon a vast space with avenues in every which direction. Not knowing whether to go left, centre or right, I just went right and began my garden journey alongside the wall. Behind lush wildflowers along the wall are espaliered apples and pears. Each espaliered spot is named after a Scottish island: there is Coll, Islay, Iona, Eigg, etc. In front of the apples are bright flowers, including dahlias (a personal favourite), gladiolus, poppies, seas of lavender and more.

The garden itself is in a state of conservation and renovation. For years, the garden has been derelict, and restoration began 10 years ago. The Amisfield Gardens Trust has a 99-year lease on the garden, so hopefully it will flourish in the meantime. The garden used to accompany a 1750s Palladian house (designed by Isaac Ware), but it was unfortunately demolished in 1928. There is, tragically, a golf course in its stead. As I meandered through the garden, various gardeners were buzzing around the place, mowing, weeding and planting. It felt like being in a hive and it was so great to see people busy at work restoring it.

In three corners of the garden sit classical pavilions. These are, unfortunately, run down at the moment, but they will be returned to their former Georgian glory. Actually, the temples’ rundown-ness sort of makes them look like follies! It is not clear what these temples were used for—perhaps for tea with a view, perhaps for music or theatre performances. The domed roofs have fallen, though they used to contain a cupola. It would have been so pretty in its time. Niches, which would have housed sculptures, are still present. According to the original plans, hothouses were built in the garden to house pineapples and grape vines, called a ‘Pinery-Vinery’. Pineapples were a true luxury during the 18th century.

There was so much to see in the garden! An allée of apple trees lined one avenue, while a maze of yew is growing. I do love a garden maze and I cannot wait to see the trees that compose it grow.

Additionally, there were three secret garden rooms encircled by tall copper beech hedges. There was the Sound Garden, which was a small Japanese garden. This garden room was quite disappointing. It did have a small fountain made of bamboo, but the stones that made up a ‘river’ were too large and there was not enough greenery in it. Next was the Scent Garden, which was also a little disappointing. The roses smelled beautifully, and the lavender was lovely, but there was not much else besides. Perhaps some lemon balm or mint would have added to the sensory experience. The third garden room was the Sight Garden, which is really a white garden. This was my favourite garden: it had a small stone bench with lemon motifs under the perfect tree for climbing. Along the walls were white flowers and bright foliage of every kind: lily, hydrangea, daisies and more.

And, finally, I have saved the best for last! In the heart of the garden rests a sundial encircled by plants of every kind: thistles, small topiary balls of box, bright orange nasturtiums, Barbie pink cosmos and more. My absolute favourite, however, were the sweetpeas! Sweetpea is one of my favourite scented flowers and the colours on this day were so lovely: coral, lilac, milky white and ballet pink. They climbed trellises and perfectly foregrounded the temples beyond. Crimson dahlias also dotted the flower beds.

The flowers at the Amisfield Walled Garden were so lush and happy to be pollinated. I loved sharing the space with the bees and gardeners. I like historic gardens like this one because I get to pretend to promenade like a character in a Regency novel. Indeed, gardens were meant to be experienced similar to the theatre—it was a stage and we the actors within/upon it. Above all, however, I love to experience an historic garden returning to how it was meant to be. I am so glad to see a once derelict garden become something to be enjoyed and studied.